Reconnecting
May. 17th, 2006 06:38 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
garranToday my sunscreen came open in my backpack. Most of my stuff weathered the storm surprisingly well, but cleaning the bag itself will not be fun.
Have you heard of Tenrikyo？ It's a fairly young Japanese religion which has its Mecca and Salt Lake City in Tenri, where we spent three days. I had previously known nothing about it, so I had only barely just realized what was going on by the time that, an hour or so after we got off the train, we entered the sprawling and beautiful temple which surrounds the spot that, according to Tenrikyo, humanity was first created. We've visit a lot of holy places, but I haven't felt the wonder and humility of being an accidental pilgrim quite so strongly anywhere else as I did at that moment.
Tenrikyo is interesting. In a lot of ways, it reminds me of Mormonism, though all my reasons are superficial enough that I doubt Rachel would see it: its youth (it was founded in the mid-1800s by a housewife-become-prophet), its active missionary effort and boasts of worldwide membership, its everyday overtness, its monotheism. (Though theirs is not the God of Abraham.) Unfortunately, it also shares a difficulty I encounter with a lot of evangelistic religions, which is that when its adherents are talking about it, rather than ritually practising it, it tends to sound a lot more like advertising than like sacredness. It gets glossy and white-smiled, and I get cool and wary. Say what you will about Buddhism, but not once on this trip have I felt like it's trying to sell itself to me.
The second day, we went to Horyuji, which temple is supposedly the oldest wooden structure in the world. It was built by a guy named Prince Shotoku, who I thought sounded pretty awesome. (On the morning of the third day, we visited another very old temple - Asukadera, which was, I understand it, actually the first outpost of Buddhism in Japan - which turned out to have been constructed by this guy who eventually assassinated Shotoku (and his son) in a bid for power. (We also visited that guy's probable tomb - he was himself killed, shortly after, by a pair of dashing young partisans of the aristocracy.) Obviously our prince was dead, but I didn't expect him to go quite so violently; it was a little shocking to me, like having your favourite character killed off unexpectedly part way through the movie. This parenthetical is totally out of control. I'd better start a new paragraph.)
After Horyuji we went to Nara, where there are incredibly tame deer wandering everywhere; I pet one, which is another in the long list of things I got to do for the first time while on this trip. In Nara is a temple called Todaiji; the name means 'big eastern temple', which really doesn't prepare you for how big the temple is. I mean, you might think that it's a long way down the road from your house to the drug store, but that's just peanuts to Todaiji.
Okay, now we come more properly to the third day. After we'd seen Asukadera and some old, proto-Shinto structures built from boulders*, and eaten lunch, we went to this big shinto shrine whose name I totally forget. (* Larry, in his most authorative teacher-voice: "Okay, so, that's something that was made by... People... Back before they realized that you don't really have to do that.") It's a shrine to the semi-mythical first emperor, and thereby very important in Shinto. In order to enter the sacred inner courtyard, we underwent a ceremony of purification for our 'outer body'; we bowed our heads, and the priest, a very composed and articulate man, waved a sort of spirit-duster around us, a stick dense with white cloth or paper fronds, all immaculately clean. Then we all approached the home of the kami (the emperor and his wife), and stood in a line as he led us through a ceremony of greeting and respect for them.
Then, before leaving, we went through a ceremony of purification for our insides, which involved taking a sip of ritually prepared sake. I'm not sure whether I would have gone through with this, had I known about it before we began the ritual at all. As it was, because I had already begun, because the context was so religious, and because it was such a small quantity, I decided that I would.
The taste was remarkable; I can only imagine what sort of bulge-eyed face I made at the miko conducting the ceremony. I had sort of imagined that it might just be like some strange and exotic juice, but it was awful, in that sickly-sour way that the smell of alcohol also has; and, just like in fantasy novels, once it reached my throat it seemed to be converted into fire, which I could still feel for some time afterward, travelling slowly down my esophagus. I guess that alcohol in general is an acquired taste that I have never acquired. Afterwards, I felt sort of cautiously off-balance, which I decided was probably psychosomatic (Marilee confirmed this afterward; she says that a whole orange has more alcohol in it than what we drank. Not so concentrated, though, I'll bet).
That was the sacred side of our time in Tenri. Allow me also to mention that we did our grocery shopping at one of the largest supermarkets I have ever seen. It had several mini-restaurants, including a Baskin & Robbins, for which I was inordinately grateful; there is iced cream everywhere here, but it's all vanilla or green tea, and that was the first place I've been able to get chocolate. It had groceries, of course. It had toiletries. It had an alcove full of UFO catchers. It had video games, including FFXII, and Mother 3. It had wacky Japanese t-shirts with their peculiar english. It had music. It had manga. It had one place where you could buy a Famicom for about 15 dollars (but I didn't). It had basically no walls at all between these things. Also, the music: unlike the banal
And that was Tenri. I am now in Tokushima, Tokushima, the city so nice that they named it 'Tokushima', where the local university has put us up in a really nice hotel (we all have single rooms) but where apparently it's going to rain a whole bunch more. (We're actually catching the edge of a typhoon.) I have taken a significant time to write this, and now I'm very hungry, so I'm off to have dinner.
The trip is halfway done.
Have you heard of Tenrikyo？ It's a fairly young Japanese religion which has its Mecca and Salt Lake City in Tenri, where we spent three days. I had previously known nothing about it, so I had only barely just realized what was going on by the time that, an hour or so after we got off the train, we entered the sprawling and beautiful temple which surrounds the spot that, according to Tenrikyo, humanity was first created. We've visit a lot of holy places, but I haven't felt the wonder and humility of being an accidental pilgrim quite so strongly anywhere else as I did at that moment.
Tenrikyo is interesting. In a lot of ways, it reminds me of Mormonism, though all my reasons are superficial enough that I doubt Rachel would see it: its youth (it was founded in the mid-1800s by a housewife-become-prophet), its active missionary effort and boasts of worldwide membership, its everyday overtness, its monotheism. (Though theirs is not the God of Abraham.) Unfortunately, it also shares a difficulty I encounter with a lot of evangelistic religions, which is that when its adherents are talking about it, rather than ritually practising it, it tends to sound a lot more like advertising than like sacredness. It gets glossy and white-smiled, and I get cool and wary. Say what you will about Buddhism, but not once on this trip have I felt like it's trying to sell itself to me.
The second day, we went to Horyuji, which temple is supposedly the oldest wooden structure in the world. It was built by a guy named Prince Shotoku, who I thought sounded pretty awesome. (On the morning of the third day, we visited another very old temple - Asukadera, which was, I understand it, actually the first outpost of Buddhism in Japan - which turned out to have been constructed by this guy who eventually assassinated Shotoku (and his son) in a bid for power. (We also visited that guy's probable tomb - he was himself killed, shortly after, by a pair of dashing young partisans of the aristocracy.) Obviously our prince was dead, but I didn't expect him to go quite so violently; it was a little shocking to me, like having your favourite character killed off unexpectedly part way through the movie. This parenthetical is totally out of control. I'd better start a new paragraph.)
After Horyuji we went to Nara, where there are incredibly tame deer wandering everywhere; I pet one, which is another in the long list of things I got to do for the first time while on this trip. In Nara is a temple called Todaiji; the name means 'big eastern temple', which really doesn't prepare you for how big the temple is. I mean, you might think that it's a long way down the road from your house to the drug store, but that's just peanuts to Todaiji.
Okay, now we come more properly to the third day. After we'd seen Asukadera and some old, proto-Shinto structures built from boulders*, and eaten lunch, we went to this big shinto shrine whose name I totally forget. (* Larry, in his most authorative teacher-voice: "Okay, so, that's something that was made by... People... Back before they realized that you don't really have to do that.") It's a shrine to the semi-mythical first emperor, and thereby very important in Shinto. In order to enter the sacred inner courtyard, we underwent a ceremony of purification for our 'outer body'; we bowed our heads, and the priest, a very composed and articulate man, waved a sort of spirit-duster around us, a stick dense with white cloth or paper fronds, all immaculately clean. Then we all approached the home of the kami (the emperor and his wife), and stood in a line as he led us through a ceremony of greeting and respect for them.
Then, before leaving, we went through a ceremony of purification for our insides, which involved taking a sip of ritually prepared sake. I'm not sure whether I would have gone through with this, had I known about it before we began the ritual at all. As it was, because I had already begun, because the context was so religious, and because it was such a small quantity, I decided that I would.
The taste was remarkable; I can only imagine what sort of bulge-eyed face I made at the miko conducting the ceremony. I had sort of imagined that it might just be like some strange and exotic juice, but it was awful, in that sickly-sour way that the smell of alcohol also has; and, just like in fantasy novels, once it reached my throat it seemed to be converted into fire, which I could still feel for some time afterward, travelling slowly down my esophagus. I guess that alcohol in general is an acquired taste that I have never acquired. Afterwards, I felt sort of cautiously off-balance, which I decided was probably psychosomatic (Marilee confirmed this afterward; she says that a whole orange has more alcohol in it than what we drank. Not so concentrated, though, I'll bet).
That was the sacred side of our time in Tenri. Allow me also to mention that we did our grocery shopping at one of the largest supermarkets I have ever seen. It had several mini-restaurants, including a Baskin & Robbins, for which I was inordinately grateful; there is iced cream everywhere here, but it's all vanilla or green tea, and that was the first place I've been able to get chocolate. It had groceries, of course. It had toiletries. It had an alcove full of UFO catchers. It had video games, including FFXII, and Mother 3. It had wacky Japanese t-shirts with their peculiar english. It had music. It had manga. It had one place where you could buy a Famicom for about 15 dollars (but I didn't). It had basically no walls at all between these things. Also, the music: unlike the banal
And that was Tenri. I am now in Tokushima, Tokushima, the city so nice that they named it 'Tokushima', where the local university has put us up in a really nice hotel (we all have single rooms) but where apparently it's going to rain a whole bunch more. (We're actually catching the edge of a typhoon.) I have taken a significant time to write this, and now I'm very hungry, so I'm off to have dinner.
The trip is halfway done.
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Date: 2006-05-17 04:11 pm (UTC)