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We spent two days in Koyasan, which is the name of a mountain and also of the village on that mountain, which is a holy place -- there's a temple every five buildings or so -- established by Kobo Daishi, the monk who founded the Shingon sect of Buddhism. He chose it because the mountain is surrounded by eight other peaks, which resembles the eight-petaled lotus flower, which is a symbol for enlightenment. It is considered a pure-land-on-earth.

(There's a bit of an interesting tension there, because one of the benificent characteristics of the traditional Pure Land, the western Buddha-land of the Buddha Amitabha, is that it's absolutely flat, so that it's never necessary to walk uphill. There are a lot of lotuses there, though.)

Kobo Daishi really was here*, and this is where he died; you can go to the place where apparently his body is, though not actually close to or into the building that houses it. He is said to be in a state of eternal meditation, and to grant boons like a saint; people light lanterns for him, and the monks bring offers of food and clothing to symbolically sustain him. To get to where that is, you pass over three bridges; the first bridge takes you from the village to the World of Death, the second from there to Purgatory, and the third from there to the World of Enlightenment, where Kobo Daishi is (and the temple for his offerings, and some burial mounds belonging to emperors from the Edo period). From the World of Death onward, the whole thing is actually a huge graveyard, the path winding between long dense clusters of ornate burial markers, Buddha statues, and huge evergreen trees, similar in kind to but much older and larger than anything we see in Vancouver, so that it didn't feel so much like home as like some mythic and magnified version of home, our land as the gods know it.

(* This is worth mentioning because we walked three of the eighty eight temples -- #3, #5 and #6 -- on the Shikoku pilgrimage route, when we were in Tokushima. Kobo Daishi is also said to have been the first to walk that, but it's historically impossible for him to have done so, at the time it was credited.)

That wasn't the only beautiful thing on Koyasan, though it was the most striking. On a purely visual level I think that it's my favourite place we've been.

Now we're back in our hostel in Osaka, where I am on the tenth floor using internet that costs ¥100 for 15 minutes. That's a dollar. (A Canadian dollar -- no easy conversion for my American friends. Haw!) All the first times of this trip are melting into this string of last times -- the last place (here) that we'll be, the last time (yesterday) that we'll go formally as a group to some educationally relevant place, the last time (today) that I'll need to do laundry. My flight home is in two days; I'll get there at 11 AM, which will be 3 AM for me, which will be Interesting. I'll be happy to be home for a lot of reasons, but I'll miss this place, and its beauty, and the wonderful cultural idiosyncracies, and the people in our group.

I spent, like, three dollars to write this entry. I hope you like it.

Date: 2006-05-25 06:42 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] masamage.livejournal.com
I spent, like, three dollars to write this entry. I hope you like it.

We're setting up a fund to rehabilitate you.

Be strong!

PS. I did like it.

My two cents worth:

Date: 2006-05-25 06:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lady-panther.livejournal.com
I did indeed enjoy it and your other entries about your trip.

You're getting back to Vancouver this weekend then I guess. I'll be in Vancouver too, but visiting with my uncle and aunt for most of the time. And if you're getting back on Friday, you'll probably be too tired to do anything.

Re: My two cents worth:

Date: 2006-05-25 07:48 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] garran.livejournal.com
I'm actually getting back on Saturday; it's Thursday, here.


-Andy H.

(I spent another dollar to check for comments. Oh well.)

Re: My two cents worth:

Date: 2006-05-26 02:56 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lady-panther.livejournal.com
Oh, okay. I wasn't quite sure what the time difference was (and I didn't think to check back to your earlier post where you say what it is).

I guess I'll see you once I move back then! In July. Unless I end up going down sometime in June.

Re: My two cents worth:

Date: 2006-05-26 04:33 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] masamage.livejournal.com
Oh yeah, you're gonna be in Vancouver!

All the more reason for me to get up there and party. *___*

Re: My two cents worth:

Date: 2006-05-26 06:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] meta4mix.livejournal.com
Sheesh. I can't afford another train trip yet! o_o

Ook!

Date: 2006-05-26 07:08 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] meta4mix.livejournal.com
Three dollars! I hope that wasn't your last three dollars, and now you're stranded in Japan! But if you are, bring me home a robot girl.

Kobo Daishi's grave sounds so pretty. *_*

My sister wants to do that temple walk, maybe. Assumng it's the one I'm thinking of (and assuming that there is more than one). Or she's at least talked about it. And it'd be tempting, honestly. ^_^;

It will be good to see (type at?) you again! But at the same time, it's sad that you're leaving such a neat place. Weh. Wabi sabi, or something... Or maybe it's that temperamental "having cake" thing.

I know your song! For two reasons: Fight Club, and I have a cover by... guess what? An obscure Christian band. Boy was it surreal when we finished watching Fight Club at Writer's Group the other day and I started recognizing the lyrics... ^_^;



I walked to
the pure lands as a
young buddha;

uphill, in the snow,
barefoot, with no legs

Re: Ook!

Date: 2006-05-26 02:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] garran.livejournal.com
The weather made it really not that much fun, although the clothes and the hospitality are cool. (If you're a pilgrim, people all along the route give you random gifts of food and such; it's good karma. If you're obviously a foreigner, they give twice as much.) We all got the shirts, and I am pleased with mine even though I totally failed to earn it.

We talked about wabi sabi in the haiku class. But I think that I7m ready to come home.

I totally don't remember that song being in Fight Club, although other people have mentioned it; I only saw that movie once, as a teenager, and was traumatized like there was no tomorrow by the twist. It was my current music because one of the other trippers was playing it on the hostel's guitar.


-Garran

I am Jack's shattered self-image

Date: 2006-05-27 04:33 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] meta4mix.livejournal.com
"I walked the 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, and all I got was this lousy t-shirt" ? XD

The song is played over the end credits of Fight Club. It is, therefore, not surprising that you don't remember it.

How come it traumatized you so much? I really liked it; besides being diabolical, it also meant that Jack was, in some respects, really, really badass.

We await your arrival! Safe travelling!

Re: I am Jack's shattered self-image

Date: 2006-05-27 06:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] masamage.livejournal.com
I admit to be utterly fascinated by the movie's premise. If it weren't rated R, I would have seen it.

Re: Ook!

Date: 2006-05-28 06:14 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lady-panther.livejournal.com
I read "young buddha" as "young banana"

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Andy H.

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